On our first day exploring Alejandro Selkirk Island, one of the island's lobster fishermen took us to dive at an underwater pinnacle that ascends from a depth of 100 meters to 18 meters. At the bottom of the pinnacle we found ourselves in a rocky landscape covered by thousands of urchins, a place where so many moray eels live that we observed frequent territorial disputes among them. Halfway through the dive we were surrounded by a school of hundreds of large yellowtail amberjacks—what we call '